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Le salar d’Uyuni et le sud Lipez

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Même si ce voyage s’avère être riche en émotions et en découvertes, je crois que je n’avais pas vécu un tel moment de grâce depuis le départ.

Certes, la découverte de Palenque, des lignes de Nazca et du Macchu Pichu nous avaient réservé leur lot d’émotions, mais à aucun moment la nature ne s’est imposée à nous de façon aussi spectaculaire. 3 jours de périple entre désert, montagne et lagunes en altitude nous ont fait nous sentir tout petits…
A l’heure de traduire cette émotion, je me rends compte à quel point les mots peuvent s’avérer futiles et vides de sens pour rendre une telle expérience perceptible.

Je vais néanmoins m’atteler à cette entreprise pour vous faire découvrir cette partie du monde où le temps se mélange à l’espace, où l’homme se perd au milieu d’une nature qui le dépasse largement.

3 jours de découvertes fabuleuses

Nous nous sommes embarqués dans un convoi de plusieurs 4×4, composé de gens de tous horizons et toutes nationalités. C’est comme si tous les habitants de la tour de Babel s’étaient décidés à partir en excursion !

Dans un premier temps, nous étions plutôt sur la réserve quant à l’authenticité de l’expérience, mais très vite, le spectacle de la nature a réussi à faire vibrer tout le monde à l’unisson. Allemands, mexicains, américains, australiens, anglais, suisses et j’en passe, ont rapidement été conquis par la beauté qui s’est imposée à chacun d’entre nous.

Notre première halte fut pour découvrir le cimetière de locomotives vapeur près d’Uyuni. Rien de très naturel me direz-vous ! Et pourtant ! Perdues au milieu de l’immensité du désert, ces loco avaient une allure de fantômes, comme sorties d’un film. L’ambiance qui les entourait était juste folle.

cimetiere-trains-salar-uyuni-bolivie
locomotive-salar-uyuni-bolivie

Le salar !

L’étape suivante nous a menés à l’entrée du Salar d’Uyuni. Imaginez vous une étendue salée aussi immense que votre regard ne peut en embrasser qu’une infime partie ! Il s’agit du désert de sel le plus grand du monde. Pas le moindre brin d’herbe, aucune trace de vie pendant des kilomètres et des kilomètres ! Ahurissant ! Tandis qu’on le traverse en voiture, on entend les craquements de la croûte salée sous les roues. Personne ne parle, tout le monde admire.

Les différentes haltes que nous faisons nous permettent d’apprécier l’immensité, le silence, le calme absolu… Pas un oiseau nous survole, pas une fourmi sur le sol. On se croirait sur une autre planète.
La pause la plus marquante est certainement celle faite pour la découverte d’une île perdue au milieu de ce désert.

desert-de-sel-uyuni
ile-coralienne-desert-de-sel-uyuni

La zone en compte 76, mais celle-ci est particulière : il s’agit d’un ancien massif coralien venu du fond des océans par la force de la tectonique des plaques ! Elle est couverte de cactus hallucinants ! La seule forme de vie que nous ayons aperçue est une sorte de lapin à longue queue. Il s’agit d’animaux endémiques et vraiment particuliers. On est définitivement sur une autre planète !

La journée s’est finie par un magnifique coucher de soleil sur l’étendue de sel, puis nous avons pris nos quartiers dans un hôtel fabriqué en sel. Tout, du sol au plafond était fait de sel ! Eh bien, on y dort plutôt très bien !

cactus-desert-uyuni-ile-coralienne

A la découverte des premières lagunes

Le lendemain, nous sommes partis en bordure de la frontière chilienne que nous avons longée jusqu’au lendemain. Là, volcans de plus de 5500 m fumants et lagunes nous attendaient.

lagune-desert-bolivie

La stupéfaction était au rendez-vous à chaque étape. Quelle surprise de découvrir des flamands roses à plus de 4500m d’altitude ! Ils étaient les magnifiques et majestueux occupants de lieux absolument extraordinaires. Leur couleur dénotait sur le fond blanc des abords salés des lagunes. Le contraste entre l’eau, les montagnes multicolores et les flamands était juste phénoménal.

Nous avons mangé à seulement quelques mètres d’eux, sans que cela paraisse les déranger. Je ne sais pas qui était au spectacle : eux ou nous ! 

Nous avons enchaîné pour aller de découverte en découverte. Un renard s’est même improvisé modèle au milieu d’une immensité de sable. Un moment absolument improbable !

IMG_20181129_112432
renard-desert-bolivie-uyuni
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Nous avons également pu découvrir d’autres fameux « lapins chelous » qui eux aussi se sont mis à poser. A vrai dire, ils avaient l’air endormis par le soleil qui leur tapait sur la tête. Un moment vraiment particulier !

Nous avons ainsi poursuivi notre chemin jusqu’à notre hôtel « de fortune ». A plus de 4300 m d’altitude, sans végétation autour, dès que le soleil se cache, le froid s’empare de vous ! Autant vous dire que nous n’avons pas traîné ! Toutefois, à cette altitude, le ciel offre un spectacle incroyable. Les nuits étoilées de l’hémisphère sud perturbent les repères que l’on peut avoir en « bon petit européen ». Plus rien n’est à sa place ! En revanche, on aperçoit parfaitement les nuages de Magellan, qui ne sont rien d’autres que le bras voisin du notre au cœur de notre galaxie… Vertigineux ! Même la nuit recèle des trésors incroyables !

Et nous avons arpenté le désert

Levés à 3h30 du matin, nous sommes partis découvrir le lever du soleil au milieu du désert, non sans avoir fait une pause pour découvrir de magnifiques geysers jaillis des entrailles de la terre. On a beau être à des kilomètres du niveau de la mer, la connexion avec le cœur de notre planète est évidente. La chaleur du sol et cette eau qui jaillit en sont la preuve. Là encore, ça provoque une impression vraiment étrange.

Après une halte à des bains thermaux (où nous avons préféré ne pas nous baigner… Il faisait 3°C dehors !), nous avons redémarré pour découvrir le désert, le vrai, celui de sable et de pierres volcaniques. Des formes incongrues apparaissent au milieu de nulle part. Le vent et le sable se sont chargés de les sculpter et de les modeler selon leurs envies. On est face à des décors surréalistes ! D’ailleurs, quelques kilomètres plus loin, le fameux « désert de Dali » nous attend. Non, le peintre ne s’y est pas rendu. En revanche, force est de reconnaître que l’on se croirait au milieu de l’un de ses tableaux ! Ahurissant et troublant à la fois.

IMG_20181129_160337
IMG_20181130_054132
volcan-couleurs-bolivie

Nous avons continué jusqu’à la Laguna verde pour finalement remonter vers Uyuni. Une fois de plus, à plus de 4800m, le panorama est juste à couper le souffle.

Notre dernière pause sauvage fut dans la vallée des pierres. Là aussi, le vent s’amuse à sculpter des pierres sorties de nulle part pour leur donner des formes à la fois évocatrices et improbables. Même pour quelqu’un né aux pieds du massif du Sidobre, au milieu des cailloux, le spectacle est fou !

laguna-verde-bolivie-sud-lipez
vallée-des-pierres-bolivie-sud-lipez

L’heure de revenir sur terre

La fin de journée à Uyuni et le jour suivant ont été nécessaires pour revenir sur terre. Ces moments passés hors du temps et dans des lieux vous privant de vos repères habituels, vous plongent dans un état vraiment particulier. On se sent si petit et si insignifiant que tout parait étrange ensuite.
Pourtant, lorsqu’on sent enfin la chance que l’on a eu de toucher tout ça du bout du doigt, on ressort grandi de cette expérience. C’est tellement étrange comme sensation !

A plusieurs reprises on se surprend à avoir les larmes aux yeux devant ces immensités et cette nature intacte. La beauté du spectacle ne peut être comparée qu’à d’autres beautés naturelles. Rien de ce que l’homme a fait ne peut supporter la comparaison.

Alors oui, on a une chance incroyable d’avoir pu arpenter ces paysages et on ne peut qu’être reconnaissant à l’égard de mère nature qui a su les façonner au cours des millions d’années qui nous précèdent. Et encore une fois, on adore notre vie !

Si un jour l’occasion se présente à vous, foncez ! Vous en ressortirez assurément différents !

Baptiste
Baptiste
Rédacteur web et passionné de stratégie, je tache de comprendre l'univers de chacun de mes clients et de leurs utilisateurs. Content marketing, copywriting et cocon sémantique sont mes spécialités.
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