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La découverte de Palenque

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Après environ 8 heures de bus, passant de décors de jungle luxuriante à plaine beaucoup plus aride, nous voilà arrivés dans la petite ville de Palenque. Les derniers kilomètres se font sous une pluie tropicale battante, sur une route en travaux, avec un vent qui faisait dévier le chauffeur de sa trajectoire à chaque bourrasque, le tout aux sons du concert d’un chanteur pour midinettes mexicain… Vous n’imaginez pas à quel point j’avais hâte de descendre de ce foutu bus !
On prend enfin un taxi qui nous emmène à notre destination. On va pouvoir se poser et récupérer de ce voyage chaotique. L’arrivée à l’hôtel est surprenante : il s’agit d’une sorte de camping peuplé de bungalows massés autour d’une piscine, le tout au milieu de la forêt. Le pied !
Notre havre de paix
On nous présente succinctement les lieux, puis nous rejoignons notre cabane. La vue est apaisante, les lieux sont calmes. Les seuls bruits proviennent de la végétation environnante : oiseaux sauvages et singes hurleurs ! Le dépaysement est au rendez-vous.
Après avoir profité d’une soirée tranquille et un bon petit déjeuner, nous nous préparons pour la visite des ruines locales. Autant vous dire que je piaffe d’impatience. J’adore les sites historiques et chargés d’histoire, mais là, je sens que quelque chose de vraiment particulier nous attend. Taxi et direction la réserve pour une visite mémorable…

Cabane de l'hôtel de Palenque
hôtel-palenque

Le site archéologique

L’arrivée à l’entrée du site est un peu banale et décevante. Comme sur tous les sites touristiques, des dizaines de vendeurs attendent les touristes et tentent de leur vendre des bibelots, du tissu, des cigares. Des cigares ? En posant la question, on nous informe que c’est pour éloigner les serpents !
Bref, on prend notre ticket et on avance sur un petit sentier au milieu des arbres. J’avoue qu’à la vue de tout ce ramdam, j’ai peur d’être déçu… On avance, on avance, et pas la moindre trace de pyramide. Puis d’un coup, la forêt laisse place au début d’une clairière, et là, stupéfaction !

Pyramide-Palenque-Mexique-site-archéologique

Soudainement, on aperçoit les premières pierres et la première pyramide, majestueuse, impressionnante ! Elle se dresse devant nous. A cet instant, les larmes me montent aux yeux. Je ne sais pas pourquoi, mais une vague d’émotion s’empare de moi et j’en reste sans voix, le souffle coupé. Elle est aussi sublime que majestueuse.
C’est difficile pour moi de vous transmettre ce que j’ai ressenti à cet instant. Je trouve mes mots fades et insipides en comparaison aux frissons qui m’ont parcouru le corps à ce moment-là. Le temps a suspendu son vol. J’étais à la fois fébrile, excité et sans voix. J’avais devant moi la preuve de la grandeur de ce peuple, d’une civilisation que j’ai toujours admirée. Plus qu’un stigmate de l’histoire, un réel témoignage de la grandeur de la culture Maya. Et je peux vous garantir que tous les reportages du monde, même ceux d’Arte (!), ne valent le plaisir de découvrir cet endroit de ses propres yeux.
En tournant la tête, je me suis rendu compte qu’en réalité, ce n’était pas un monument, mais bel et bien une cité entière qui se dressait nous ! Je vous assure, ce moment restera à jamais gravé dans ma mémoire. Le fait de me le remémorer me donne encore la chair de poule.

En avant pour l’exploration

Compte tenu de la densité du site, nous avons passé plus de 3 heures sur place. Nous sommes montés sur toutes les constructions qu’il nous était permis d’explorer. Nous sommes même rentrés dans la pyramide principale. L’étroitesse du passage, la moiteur des lieux, et la masse de pierres qui vous surplombent à ce moment-là ajoute encore de l’intensité aux émotions ressenties.
Je me suis mis à écouter tous les guides qui nous entouraient. Chacun y allait de son anecdote pour séduire son auditoire. C’est ainsi que l’on a appris que les habitants étaient de vrais ingénieurs, aussi bien en termes de construction que d’agriculture. Ils avaient mis en place des canaux destinés à l’approvisionnement de la cité en eau potable, ainsi que des canaux dédiés à la récupération des eaux usées et des excréments. C’est d’ailleurs ainsi qu’ils fertilisaient les terres qu’ils cultivaient.

Loin de l’image des sauvages décrits par Cortez et consorts, ces gens étaient en phase avec leur environnement et la terre qui les nourrissait.
Ce qu’il faut imaginer, c’est que ce lieu est en plein milieu de la jungle ! Le site que l’on visite ne représente que 15% de la cité originelle. Le reste est encore enfoui sous les arbres et la végétation qui l’entoure. Les singes hurleurs qui se font entendre en sont les gardiens.
Certaines constructions arborent encore des restes des pigments qui les ornaient. Une quantité impressionnante de bas-reliefs relatent l’histoire et le quotidien des habitants. C’est un lieu passionnant. Même en y revenant 100 fois, on découvrirait encore quelque chose de nouveau à chaque visite. Nous avons donc exploré le site de fond en comble. Les cuisses finissent d’ailleurs par brûler à force de gravir et de descendre les pyramides.
On s’est enfoncé dans la forêt pour découvrir les sites découverts plus récemment. Les pierres sont prises dans les racines des arbres, nous rappelant au passage que la nature finit toujours par reprendre ses droits.

C’est encore plus beau que ce que j’imaginais !

Force est de constater que la visite d’un tel site nous ramène forcément à notre condition d’homme moderne. On se sent tout petit et insignifiant à la vue de tels témoignages du passé. Ce lieu est absolument somptueux !

Encore une fois, j’ai l’impression de n’avoir pas assez de mots pour vous transmettre l’intensité de l’expérience. C’est fou à quel point ces moments sont magiques.

Nous ne sommes que toutes petites choses en comparaison de ce que nous avons alors sous les yeux.

jungle-site-archéologique-Palenque

Nous avons fini notre balade en passant par le musée du site. De magnifiques pièces y sont conservées. Une réplique de la tombe du roi Tikal y est exposée. L’originale repose encore dans la pyramide. Elle est tellement imposante, qu’il faudrait démonter la pyramide pour la sortir ! Cette visite est l’essence même de ce que j’attendais de ce voyage. Une découverte qui me mettrait une vraie claque. Je vous assure, j’ai réalisé un de mes rêves de gosse. Il m’en reste encore pas mal, mais là, j’ai touché du bout du doigts quelque chose dont je me souviendrai à jamais.
Vidés et ébahis, nous sommes rentrés à l’hôtel-cabane pour savourer ce moment magique que nous venions de passer. La piscine nous attendait pour lutter contre la chaleur et la moiteur ambiante. Perdus au milieu de la forêt, nous barbotions dans l’eau avec les autres occupants des lieux.

reproduction-tombe-roi-Tikal-musée-Palenque

Une pluie fédératrice

Comme souvent l’après-midi, un orage s’est mis à gronder. Tout le monde squattait autour de la piscine, sans pour autant se parler. Chacun vaquait à sa façon.
Puis soudain, une pluie diluvienne s’est abattue sur nous. Résultat : tout le monde a sauté à l’eau. Et bizarrement, tout le monde s’est mis à parler. Sous des trombes d’eau, des discussions improbables ont commencé à naître.

Piscine-hôtel-Palenque-proche-site-archéologique

Aussi bien les mexicains, que les étrangers ont engagé la conversation. C’était tellement drôle de voir tout le monde réuni grâce à la pluie ! Ça parlait de tout et de rien, on rigolait beaucoup de la situation improbable, mais le moment était juste parfait !
C’est drôle de voir comme une simple averse peut changer les choses. Nous sommes tous passés de « nous regarder en chiens de faïence », à discuter au milieu d’une piscine ! C’était génial.
Une fois l’averse passée, la glace était brisée, et il est devenu facile de nous parler les uns les autres. Et c’est là que Manuel s’est approché de nous…
Pour la suite, je vous invite à lire l’échange que nous avons eu avec ce personnage dans la catégorie « rencontres ». Là encore, il s’agit d’un moment vraiment mémorable, qui a grandement impacté la suite de notre périple. A suivre…

Baptiste
Baptiste
Rédacteur web et passionné de stratégie, je tache de comprendre l'univers de chacun de mes clients et de leurs utilisateurs. Content marketing, copywriting et cocon sémantique sont mes spécialités.
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