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Le Chiapas

Après Cancun et Tulum dans le Yucatan, nous voilà partis en direction du Chiapas.

La région est connue pour être la plus pauvre du pays, mais nous ne savons pas réellement à quoi nous attendre. Notre première étape est Tuxtla Gutierrez. 

Après un peu plus d’une heure de vol, nous arrivons dans un tout petit aéroport, lové au milieu de montagnes, en plein cœur d’une vallée. Agression par une ribambelle de taxis à l’arrivée ! Difficile de choisir. On se décide, et nous voilà embarqués par un chauffeur qui s’est pris pour un pilote.

Arrivée à Tuxtla

Le compteur affiche 100 km/h tandis que les panneaux limitent la vitesse à 40. Tout va bien. Les pneus crissent un peu dans les virages, ça secoue pas mal à l’arrière, mais encore une fois, tout va bien ! Nous arrivons dans une ville assez banale, un peu salie par la pollution, mais qui ne paye pas de mine. Nous avions réservé un Airbnb, et nous avions juste une envie : arriver et ne plus être secoués.

Notre hôte nous a accueillis et nous sommes allés faire un tour pour voir ce qui nous attendait. Première impression étrange ! Une sorte de fête foraine est montée près de la maison. Tous les manèges sont « faits maison »… La « grand roue » est entraînée par un moteur électrique et une roue de voiture, des câbles reliés par des dominos traînent par terre, le manège de chevaux de bois tourne lui aussi grâce à une roue de voiture, bref, système D.

On sent vite que la ville va nous surprendre, mais on ne sait pas dans quel sens. On se rend vite compte que le tout est très pollué. Ici, le contrôle technique n’existe pas. Chaque fois qu’un feu passe au vert, un gros nuage de fumée se crée instantanément. On sent que la population est effectivement modeste. Rien à voir avec le golfe du Mexique. On est bien hors des sentiers battus touristiques, loin du Mexique paradisiaque. Mis à part la place de « la Marimba » où la population locale vient danser le soir, rien à faire à Tuxtla. Donc on en profite pour travailler et se libérer du temps pour la suite. 

En revanche, c’est le premier contact avec la vraie misère. On voit des enfants sniffer de l’essence et de la colle dans la rue. Ils sont en bande et demandent des pièces. Premier gros choc du voyage. Même si on le sait, qu’on l’a lu, le voir, c’est autre chose. Tu vois vite leur regard vitreux. Le blanc des yeux est jaune, le regard hagard, ils sont défoncés. C’est le type d’image qui te percute et te marque profondément. Découvrir le Mexique, et plus largement l’Amérique centrale, c’est aussi ça. Le Chiapas est peuplé de paysans qui descendent en ville pour trouver du travail qui n’existe pas.

Après quelques jours, on s’en va pour un village plus haut dans la montagne. Mais on n’en a pas fini avec Tuxtla…

San Cristobal de las Casas

 Changement radical ! On arrive au milieu d’un village colonial, ancienne capitale du Chiapas. Tout est très coloré et très propre. Les rues sont pavées, la montagne entoure le village et nous sommes à 2200 mètres d’altitude. On sent que les héritiers de la civilisation Maya nous entourent. Beaucoup de costumes traditionnels, beaucoup d’artisanat, et surtout une ambiance beaucoup plus légère se ressent dans les rues. On sent une vraie culture mexicaine, moins distordue par l’influence US.

 

rue-San-Cristobal-de-las-casas
San-Cristobal-de-las-Casas

La place principale est toute petite, mais les gens sont plus souriants. Certes, on nous demande encore de la monnaie, mais il faut se faire à l’idée que nous des « gringos » pour eux. Malgré tout, on sent moins l’oppression de la pauvreté. 

A vrai dire, on ne restera que 2 jours, juste le temps de découvrir un tout petit peu le patrimoine culturel et architectural que compte la ville. En réalité, on va y revenir d’ici quelques jours. En revanche, on se prépare pour partir dans la jungle tropicale luxuriante de Palenque ! Là bas, un site archéologique majestueux nous y attend. Un vrai témoignage du monde Maya et de l’histoire du Mexique, que l’archéologie a fait ressortir de l’oubli, le tout au milieu des singes hurleurs et de la forêt tropicale ! C’est une cité qui est restée enfouie pendant des siècles. 

Dépaysement total garanti. J’ai hâte, je trépigne ! Un rêve de gosse est sur le point de se réaliser. On va enfin découvrir la culture Maya et ses trésors. Même si le cite est plus petit que celui de Tikal ou Teotihuacan, il est unique et compte à mes yeux parmi les merveilles du monde. 

A suivre…

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    References:

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